A Rough Guide on the Thyagaraja aaradhana
The aradhana is generally held in the third / fourth week of January,and this is the best time of the year to tour these parts. Tiruvaiyyaru, a quaint village near Thanjavur, seems to live just for the festival. A reasonably full Cauvery, cool mornings and the vast tracts of mist covered paddy fields complement the divine music at the aaradhana.

Thanjavur, the nearest town to Tiruvaiyyaru, is 13 kilometres away and is easily accessible. State transport buses from Thanjavur take nearly 45 minutes to reach Carnatic music's own pilgrimage destination. There is a bus every 20 minutes.

Autorickshaws charge about Rs.70 for the ride upto Tiruvaiyyaru. Meter systems are non-existent for this route - so make sure you have fixed the fare before you jump in!

The aaradhana is not the only attraction at Tiruvaiyyaru. The much forgotten and neglected tenth century Shiva temple of Panchanadeeshwarar and Dharmasamvardhani Ambal is a treasure trove of Chola architecture and paintings.

As the name of the presiding deity and the town suggest, Tiruvaiyyaru has as many as five rivers running nearby. There are some interesting lores associated with this ancient temple. For example doing a pradakshinam of the Tiruvaiyyaru temple is not allowed because it is believed that Lord Shiva's holy locks grow here. Having a local resident on your side will help you gather lots of wonderful tidbits like these.

Get your lodging organised at Thanjavur as there are virtually no facilities in Tiruvaiyyaru. The good hotels are

Hotel Oriental Towers - provides hotel accommodation services, travel services, shopping, secretarial service.
Address: 2889, Srinivasam Pillai Road, Thanjavur - 613 001, India
Phone: (91)-(04362)-230724,230850.

Hotel Parisutham - offers continental and Indian cuisine, accepts major credit cards. Address: 55 , G.A. Canal Road, Thanjavur - 613 001, India
Phone: +(91)-(04362)-231801/231844/231466

Hotel Tamilnadu, Thanjavur
Phone :(91) - 04362 - 231325, 231421, 231024, 231972

Many aaradhana pilgrims opt to spend the nights under the pandal inside the Thyagaraja Temple. The smart traveller can befriend a local and be his guest for a couple of days but paying guests are not exactly the rage here - drop the idea if you are not the adventurous type! Walking is the best way of getting around in Thiruvaiyyaru. Autos charge Rs.15 even for short distances!

Hotel Ganesh Bhavan, near the town bus stand, is the only good restaurant in Tiruvaiyyaru. But here too, as the aradhana approaches, the water levels in the chutney and sambar go up drastically! You can eat at the Thyagaraja memorial campus but only if you are prepared to fight it out for a place inside the dining hall. Don't miss the mouth-watering local speciality called Asoka Halwa.

Veterans of Thiruvaiyyaru bring their food packed from nearby towns. Otherwise, be prepared to survive on oily snacks, tender coconut water, fruits and hot coffee.

Communication is not a problem at Tiruvaiyyaru, there are lots of STD booths around but don't expect the luxury of a speedy Internet.

Fax is your best bet for an urgent message. Arm yourself with a good camera for some great photo opportunities.

Every village enroute to Tiruvaiyyaru from Thanjavur has a temple whose history dates back to a few centuries !

 
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