The temporary shrine at the Navaratri Mandapam located near the eastern entrance of Sree Padmanabhaswami Temple in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala becomes a centre of attraction and buzz on the eve of Navarathri.

People throng this place in the heart of town to see the arrival of the idols and of the maharaja receiving goddess Saraswathi. Munnuutinanga and Kumaraswamy too accompany the Goddess. It is also the time to host the music festival.

I have observed every year that at this time, when the idols reach the mandapam it drizzles and considered to be auspicious.

This time around there was a heavy downpour. Rains are always welcome and they did dampen the spirit of the devotees and the rasikas.

Only the idol of goddess Saraswathi is taken inside the mandapam and the rest are taken to the Chenthitta Devi temple and Subramania Swami temple respectively.

At the mandapam which is actually a part of the royal palace complex the idol is placed in the 'edakkettu', a small chamber.

Only on the first day of the Navarathri is the idol is shifted to another spacious chamber - now the shrine - where devotees can pray and worship.

Hall decorated with fresh flowers

There is a still larger hall in front of this shrine - which is tastefully decorated with fresh flowers like red, pink and white oleanders, chrysanthemum and jasmine.

The pillars are covered with dry areca nuts and lemon. Huge oil- lit brass lamps add to the atmosphere of this place and season.

The shrine is opened to the public only at three in the evening on the first day. The devotees queue up patiently and are led inside. On Friday, Tuesday and Sunday and on the last two days, the queue is more than a kilometer long.

Daily between 7.30 am and 8 30 am and between 5.30 pm and 9 pm devotees are not let inside. There is a window on the road side through which devotees can view the shrine. This is an arrangement for those who cannot get inside for various reasons.

The main hall which sports a few murals is where the Navaratri concerts are here. These are offerings in music than public concerts.

For the artistes there is no formal stage. During the concert, the hall is lit only by the light emerging from giant brass lamps which are replenished with oil every 30 minutes.

Royal traditions continue

The members of the royal family - His Highness Uthradam Tirunal Marthanda Varma, the heir apparent Mulam Tirunal Rama Varma, Senior Princess Pooyam Tirunal, her consort Chembrol Raja Raja Varma, son Prince Aswati Tirunal Rama Varma, daughter Princess Thiruvathira Tirunal Lakshmi Bayi, Junior Princess Aswathi Tirunal Lakshmi Bayi, her sons Ravi Varma and Aditya Varma and their consorts Rasmi and Gopika and their children attend the concerts here.

There is a chamber to the right of the shrine - facing the artistes. The royal family members occupy this chamber. From here they view the concert through a wooden lattice and small arched windows.

Rasikas squat on the floor facing the artistes and others sit in the open courtyard.

Only Hindus are let in and rasikas too have to attend the concert clothed only in the 'temple attire' ( men must be without the upper garment). Those who do not wish to follow the regulation prefer to sit on the flight of steps that leads to the Sree Padmanabhaswami Temple.

Foreigners too occupy this place. Two speakers are arranged for rasikas who sit outside.

Music and worship intertwined

The moment the concert is over, the shrine is closed. A team of five women enter the hall with broom sticks and mopping cloth and water. The hall is dusted and mopped.

Then ashtagandham is burnt and its white fumes and pleasant fragrance fills the entire mandapam.

The Maharaja with folded hands stands in front of the shrine. The door is opened and deeparadhana takes place. The Maharaja is given white oleander flowers in a plantain leaf which he symbolically offers to the deity.

After the deeparadhana, the Maharaja returns and it is the turn of the other royal family members to worship. Then the devotees are let in. They receive kumkum as prasadam.

There are many offerings like sarva pushpa alangaram and lalitha sahasrama archana. To offer these, one have to book in advance. There are other offerings which the devotees can register on the spot.

At 11 a.m. on October 23 there was a mass rendition of Lalitha Sahasranamam led by Dr Sambasivan, neuro surgeon and Vedic scholar.

Once Navaratri is over, the idols are taken to Padmanabhapuram.

The Navaratri music fest in Thiruvananthapuram is unique. The experience is unique too.