The road from Chidambaram to Thiruvarur is deserted. It is a 150-minutes drive. If the canals had water, we would have been tempted to stop and stare. Gushing water from a lone water pump seems inviting on a hot summer's evening. Wow! One more bath would refresh you . . .

The imposing gopuram of Sri Thyagarajaswamy Temple greets us from afar. There is a certain quietness this evening, March 7.Flags and banners of the Melmaravathur adigalar dot the streets.Further down, one red gives way to another.

The Communists are having a public meeting. And their leader Nallakannu competes with a smile with that of the Bangaru adigal.

The temple is an imposing architecture. "Go inside, it is bigger than a cricket ground,"says the driver of a van which has transported dancers from Karaikudi. When cricket is in the air, as it is now with the first Test in Mohali between Indian and Pakistan to start on March 8, cricket invades even everyday conversation!

A small crowd has gathered in front of the simple, all-white stage built into a corner of the temple campus. Well known dancer Padma Subrahmanyam has been instrumental in getting local connosieurs to host dances inside temples at this place and in Nagapattinam. Sivaratri is an apt occasion.

We wander around the temple as the first group of dancers warm up in the makeshift greenroom. A huge picture of an artist's impression of the teppam is informative. The teppam at Thiruvarur is said to be the biggest anywhere. More than 800 people can be accommodated on it. So huge it is! Next month, on April 27, the ther celebrations will be held. And the teppam folows - in about four weeks. And Thiruvarur will be overrun by thousands of devotees. Thanjavur has a festival every week!

Back to the stage and the teenage dancers of guru Sheela Unnikrishnan draw a bigger audience. Gurus like Sheela, based in Chennai, virtually go on a Natyanajali darshan at this time of the year. One night here, a drive across to Kumbakonam, perform in the evening and then, head to Chidambaram. For the sishyas, though it is examination time, the darshan is a great opportunity they cannot miss. Five of them perform the 'Shiva Thandavam' to recorded music, which shatters what is a quiet and well maintained temple campus.

Next follow, the sishyas of Dr. Sarala of Karaikudi. The Natyanjali here is in its eighth year. And it seems to have impressed local people. Women compare last night's performance with this evening's. They even know the names of gurus. Perhaps the time has come to have more performances in temples as part of local festivals.

The air is still. The district Collector and his family arrive. And it is time for dancer and teacher Meenakshi Chittaranjan to present 'Sundarar'. The show was presented at Sri Kapaleeswarar Temple in Mylapore, Chennai, and is now doing the Natyanjali circuit.

The audience has grown. For us, it is time to leave. There are too many curves on Thanjavur's roads. Worse, most drivers do not dip their headlamps. We have a date to keep at Chidambaram's opening evening of the Natyanjali.

We arrive in Chidambaram at midnight. Natyanjali Trust Secretary A. Sambandam is burning the midnight oil in his office.

"I have kept vigil even before Sivaratri!", he says. Double blessed he will be.

If you have been to a Natyanjali festival in south India, share your experiences with us. Mail us at editor@kutcheribuzz.com