The land here has been blessed with good rains in the fag end of 2004, and we feast on endless acres of ripened paddy, ready for threshing on the main roads, as we drive into the Lower Anaicut region.

The landscape does not change right up to Kumbakonam though one wishes the state relaid the main road and saved us a horribbly bumpy ride.

Thanjavur is chaotic the afternoon we arrive on the weekend of January 29. All towns are. And if you are new to the place, local residents are knowledgeable and can guide you to any place of interest.

For a hungry lot like us, a Thanjavur meal is what we want first - served on a extra-wide banana leaf grown in the Thiruppunthuruthy region (where an annual music festival on the tarangams of guru Narayana Theertha is held in mid-February at his samadhi). Tamil Nadu's Governor, Surjit Singh Barnala, has inaugurated the aradhana fest and when we arrive on a Saturday, the buzz doing the rounds is whether it was proper on the part of singer O. S. Arun to have sung Hindustani laced songs, and if this was done to please the Governor.

The aradhana continues to alienate many people. Because of the way it is run by the men who manage it and because many of these concerts are becoming soulless offerings at a hallowed place. Many local people stay away from it. We cannot. Because there is a certain magic about this place for the passionate. The mantap is gaily decorated and floodlit so severely that sitting for hours on the sandy ground across the samadhi of the saint can test your patience.

The Cauvery is in full flow and you wish you could feast on its waters reflecting the light of a full moon. But the metal barricades that secure the pilgrims, blank out a beautiful sight.

That Saturday, the mantap is packed. It is also a day out for the local people.

And many are waiting for K. J. Yesudoss. The Keralite singer still has a huge fan following and when he arrives, a big ring of plainclothes people escort him in a secure ring, to backstage.

He gets a huge round of applause after every song. Sudha Raghunathan follows him on the other stage. Sudha is in her best Kanchipuram silks and bides her time to go live on All India Radio's national network. Hers is another popular face and the fans on the fringe stay on. But the moment she finishes her concert, many get fidgety and move out. Not the best welcome you can give to a veteran vidwan like Ramani, the flautist. But Ramani and his accompanists are not the sort who are disheartened. They create a wonderful atmosphere as the clock strikes eleven that night.

Concerts go on till midnight when the nadaswaram artistes sign off: they also start a new day's proceedings. Over the years, a noisy, colourful market has grown at this venue. Music albums and books on philosophy, Nestea and kal-dosai, hair-clips and film posters. All this and more fascinate the eager shopper for whom music is secondary, the mela more important. Thiruvaiyaru's aradhana is a pilgrimage for the devotees of Lord Rama. And they come from all over - you see many Telugus, lugging bag and baggage, walking briskly to the samadhi from all corners of the town.

As dawn breaks on January 30, the idol of the saint is taken out in a procession from his house to the samadhi. Devotees sing the kritis, stop at households whose members wish to offer money and rice as donation. As the procession turns into an agraharam, many colourful kolams and rangolis, some displaying the image of the saint, greet us. Nothing has been done to improve the condition of what should have been a popular landmark to honour the saint-composer. Two years ago when we broached the topic with the secretaries of the sabha that hosts this aradhana, we were promised that they had big plans to renovate this house.That has not been carried out. Yet, when rasikas genuflect, pray and then sit down and sing Thyagaraja's compositions, the atmosphere is electric. The holiday brings large numbers of people to the mantap, eager to sing the pancharatna kritis.

The arrangements are immaculate but there is a big rush to get into the sections set apart for artistes, VIPs and vidwans. Singer Charumathi Ramachandran loses her balance as people behind her rock the queue and when she finds her feet, there is no place for her in the section fully occupied by the well known and the little known. These are the rows that get the attention of Doordarshan cameras and with its nationwide live coverage, there can't be a better temptation than the few minutes of fame you are promised. While the abhishekam is carried out on the idol of saint Thyagaraja at one end, and devotees pray all around it, the pancharathna kritis are sung en masse and you get the feeling, as you move on the fringes of the mantap, that ordinary people seem to have greater fervour in singing them, than the ones under the arclights.

A permanent feature now, violinist Kunnakudy Vaidyanathan enjoys his role as the master of ceremonies. Coaxing the artistes, goading them, keeping the tala, flashing a big, big smile. When the frenzy reaches its finale, it is time for the artistes to pat each other, pose for keepsake pictures and be engulfed by the fans.

The mantap is half-empty as people stream to different halls where food is served free of charge by donors. The 20-minutes per artiste kutcheris go on alternatively inside the mantap. Behind the concert stage, sits the idol of the woman who devoted time and wealth to the saint - Bangalore Nagarathnammal. Sadly, the idol is completely hidden by the stage and the backdrop.

Later that evening, when abishekam is done at this shrine, those passing by acknowledge her presence. Lots of youngsters get the opportunity to sing at the aradhana. And they come from all corners. Even film playback singers Shrinivas and Chitra make it to the aradhana.

But when you see many performers dressed in their Kanchipuram best, flashing loads of diamond-studded jewellery, you begin to wonder if this is a homage that artistes pay to Carnatic music's great, or a subtle fashion and style show in the outback!

If you wish to share your experience of the aradhana in Thiruvaiyaru, email your note to editor@kutcheriBuzz.com

If you wish to participate in the 2006 Aradhana, here is a note for you:

The fest is being co-ordinated by Sri Thyagabrahma Mahotsava Sabha. An announcement in the sabha's festival booklet says that all up-coming artistes participating in the Aradhana festival this year, will be given the next chance in the year 2007 only. Artistes who wish to participate in the Aradhana festival next year (2006) should make their own arrangements for accompaniments and apply before October 30, 2005. The applications should be sent to The Secretaries, Sri Thyagabrahma Mahotsava Sabha, No. 31, Thirumanjana Veedhi, Thiruvaiyaru - 613 204.

The sabha is headed by G. Rangaswami Moopanar, President, Thyaga Brahma Mahotsava Sabha, Moopanar Bungalow, Sundaraperumal Koil Post, Kumbakonam Taluk. Violinist Kunnakudi Vaidhyanathan and thavil artiste Haridwaramangalam A.K. Palanivel are the sabha's secretaries.